Ecotourism in Amazon

We stayed at Casa Sinchi-Sacha Lodge in Amazon during our second weekend trip. The lodge, run by an indigenous group is located on the bank of Napo River, one of the tributaries of the Amazon River. We learned how people maintain livelihood maximizing the assets available locally in different regions in Ecuador. Obviously, ecotourism in Amazon is one of the best ways to generate sustained income, offering tourists to experience the region’s rich culture and nature.    

View of Napo River from the lodge.

Guestes sleep in mosquito-nets.

On the first day, we were initiated by a wild taste of “chocolate fondue” served on a banana leave. This Amazonian delicacy with a hint of Europe is made from ingredients straight from the garden—cacao beans, oranges, bananas, even fondue forks (except for sugar added to sweeten chocolate).

Fresh cacao fruits taken from the garden.

Wild chocolate foundue

On the second day, we immersed ourselves in the ancient tropical rainforest whole day. We learned flora and fauna in Amazong while hiking, rope-swinging, picnicng, and swimming in rivers.

Hiking with rubber boots

Tropical rainforest

Riverside picnic

Nobuyuki Imamura

Regional Diversiity in Ecuador - The Three Regions of the Mainland

One of the most spectacular aspects of mainland Ecuador is the fact that  there are three distinct geographic regions, all within an area about the size of the state of Colorado. Coastal beaches, the Andes mountains and the Amazon rainforest are all within a few hours drive of each other, and present vastly different geographic areas, cultures and cuisines. Though differences have been an advantage over the years, with trade between groups providing potatoes to the coastal folks and citrus fruits to the highland residents, the areas have also presented challenges in managing diversity and in insuring that each region's population is recognized and included. Below is a short synopsis of the geographic regions of Ecuador.

Coast - found in the west of Ecuador, the coast is densely populated, but also holds much of the population which lives in poverty. This are is also where many of the Afro Ecuadorians reside, as well as several distinct indigenous groups. A major city on the coast is Guayaquil.

Highlands - Running along the center of the country are the highlands, which are called so because they are part of the Andean mountain range. This area is also densely populated, and most residents are either mestizo (mixed race) or indigenous. Quito, the capital of Ecuador, is in the highlands region.

Oriente - The eastern part of Ecuador is the Oriente, or the rainforest region. It is called the Oriente because it was originally thought to be the Orient, or Asia, when it was discovered. The word Amazon is in fact Greek in origin, and refers to an oriental group which the first explorers thought they had discovered. This area is hot, humid and home to many indigenous groups, as well as one of the most bio diverse areas in the world. Unfortunately, this is also where large oil reserves are found in Ecuador, including the Yasuni reserves, which for now are safe, but in the future could be exploited and cause irreparable damage to the wildlife in the area.

Buen Vivir

I am in love with Ecuador, and perhaps it was even at first sight. A great sense of hope, of progress and change seems to flow throughout this picturesque country, something I have not known in the USA since I was a child. Indeed, the picture being painted of Ecuador both inside and outside the classroom is of an up-and-coming nation, rich in diversity of culture and environment, among many others. At the same time, Ecuador is not without the myriad problems and challenges of a developing Latin American country reeling from more than 400 years of colonial rule and the ever-present forces of globalization.

Quito - Old City

Catholic Basilica - Quito

Visit to 19th-century Hacienda

Over the past two weeks, the six of us have been exposed in equal parts to the themes of development, diversity and sustainability as Ecuador solidifies its common identity, values, and direction as a “pluri-national” state.

More often than not, the current Ecuadorean government’s theme of “Buen Vivir” (“good life”) illustrates a common desire for a future state that is not defined by American or European ideals of what a “developed” country looks like, but an ideal defined by Ecuadoreans themselves. From the American perspective, this makes perfect sense—you craft your own destiny (when you have the chance), but in a country dominated by others for so long, the prospect of establishing a common identity and destiny is a major step forward. Of course, Buen Vivir is open for interpretation—in Ecuador as anywhere, political wrangling and disagreement abounds.

The idea of Buen Vivir attempts to balance economic development with equally valuable necessities for a productive and rich life such as ensuring public health, protecting the environment, and maintaining the priceless, diverse elements of Ecuadorean culture and environment.

Of course, all of these things cost money, and one of the most poignant reminders of Ecuador’s forceful commitment to economic development as a central pillar for achieving Buen Vivir is the infrastructure and road-building frenzy taking place from the traffic-choked capital of Quito, to the Pan American highway and the twisty mountain roads that snake across the Andes. Indeed, on our way to Salinas de Bolivar, a rural indigenous community high up in the mountains (~13,000ft), we had to wait while construction crews dynamited part of the mountainside for a new road! Boom!

Blasting for a new road high above the tree line, near Mt. Chimborazo.

To demonstrate some of the “diversity, development and sustainability,” we have encountered so far, here are some photos from our trips to windy, cold Salinas de Bolivar (known for its famous micro-enterprises of cheese and chocolates), and our most recent trip to the sweltering but beautiful Ecuadorean Amazon rainforest.

Salinas de Bolivar

Above Salinas de Bolivar on a hike, looking west.

Taking the boat along the Amazonian Napo River, to the eco-lodge.

The destination of a 7-hour-total rainforest hike! Phew!

At this point, I am inclined to think that even though we have learned an enormous amount from Professor Clark and all of the excellent speakers and locals we have encountered, I find myself often thinking back to what “buen vivir” means to me personally and in the USA more broadly. Certainly, I have learned that development, sustainability, and diversity are concepts that are very relative, and open to interpretation.

"Come Pick Me Up, I've Landed"

Welcome, one and all, to the Inaugural Post of SIS Ecuador Summer 2012 Blogtacular! I’m pleased to report that all participants are here in Quito and in excellent health, thanks in no small part to our wonderful hosts, Consuelo and Patricio of The Owl's Inn. Minus some intermittent issues adjusting to the elevation, I’d say we all did extraordinarily well.

Our introduction to the city was nothing short of fantastic. Many thanks to Julio Rivas, our intrepid guide, for the impassioned and knowledgeable tours of La Mitad del Mundo (the point where the Equator crosses Quito):

...and the city's old quarter:

Where we had a chance to sample some of Quito’s marvelous culinary traditions and enjoy some great views of the city after nightfall (which, by the way, happens super early.) It wasn’t until the next morning that things got serious. Having recovered from varying degrees of altitude sickness, we struck out for the U.S. Embassy for a security briefing. We traded our passports for “Visitor” badges and met some of the fine Department of State employees representing the USA in Ecuador. 

• Highlights! No one got detained, and they were very friendly folks. 
• Lowlights! Let’s just say Quiteños have come up with a number of… unconventional… substances to use as distractions if they want to grab your stuff.  

All in all, it was a fittingly varied entree (the 2nd definition, that doesn't mean food- though we've certainly had plenty of that) into a seminar that will have us learning about the impossibly multifaceted topic of diversity in the Andes region. We’ve begun our classes at la Universidad de las Americas in earnest, and I think it’s fair to say that issues of diversity, development, and sustainability in this part of the world are far more complex than any of us could have anticipated. That’s really saying something, considering that SIS courses give us just about all the complexity we can handle as it is. But the enormous challenges faced by our generation demand scholars and practitioners who know how to tackle tough issues from multiple directions. With Professor Donoso-Clark’s guidance and the behind-the-wheel stylings of Edwin, who gets us from place to place with a level of finesse that, frankly, shouldn’t be possible in our gigantic yellow van, I’m thinking we have a real shot at doing some big things based on what we learn here. 

From left to right, we've got Edwin "El Chauffeur", Adam, Professor Donoso-Clark,

Heather, Amanda, Faye, Nobuyuki, and Jonathan. Takin' on the world,

one museum dinner at a time.

We’ll be updating regularly as the program continues, so check back often for impassioned missives on Ecuador’s constitution and social policy, environmental protection, and much more. Nos vamos! 


-A.W.G.